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My RV-8 build
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Date: 5-13-2012
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Number of Hours: 1.50
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Manual Reference: Page 7-7
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Brief Description: Left wing fuel tank part #30
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I was able to get into the garage on Mother's Day...who would have thought! I started off by cleaning the rivet holes with acetone and then soaked the rivets in acetone.
I mixed up a 40 gram batch of proseal and went to work. Using the #40 punch, I would cover the rivet hole with proseal and then insert the #40 punch up and down in it. The hole would then be filled and then I would move onto the next hole and do the same. After every second hole was done, I inserted a cleaned and dried rivet into the hole, making sure to seat it flush using a #30 punch. I removed any excess proseal and then squeezed the rivets.
Once squeezed, I removed the remaining clecos, cleaned thoroughly, and repeated the process and both top and bottom, inboard and outboard ribs.
There were a few rivets I had to buck and because of space issues, I couldn't use the tungsten bucking bar, so, I used the side of one of my yokes..did the trick on the inboard side where the rivets seat near the BNC connector and the fuel line vents.
After all the rivets were set, I covered the entire flange with proseal, making a nice flayed layer, covering all of the rivet heads. You can see from the picture that I have installed the bung kit on the outboard rib in the event I install the Hotel Wiskey tanks.
After consulting the forum, I decided to removed the return line I installed and will add a 90 degree elbow to the return line fitting and point it straight down to the bottom of the tank. This should avoid any issues of the flop tube chaffing on the previous return line I fabricated.
Tomorrow, I'll seal and rivet the 405/410 and install the flop tube.
Oh yeah, I also picked up an AP-74 from the forum for $380. New, not used.
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Outboard left tank
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Inboard left tank
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Outboard top left tank
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